I was an avid outdoor climber for many years, and like most, went indoor climbing on rainy days to train and stay fit in winter between climbing trips. These spaces were predominantly male, and I can remember finding them slightly intimidating. As indoor climbing has exploded across the world and in the UK, the sport has seen a huge surge of girls and women of all ages come into climbing both competitively and socially.
Representation is so incredibly powerful. Female coaches, route setters, climbers and staff members are now the norm at most gyms. It’s amazing how the presence of strong women in a climbing gym can have such a positive impact on the next generation of climbers. When climbers see strong and skilled female climbers training, it not only inspires them but helps break down barriers and old stereotypes. It shows our younger female climbers that they too can excel in the sport and encourages their growth, determination, and self-belief.
The great news is that climbing gyms are evolving to reflect and support this shift. Many host women only climbing sessions to encourage new climbers to train together in a supportive group, building confidence and community. Climbing competitions include female categories in youth, senior, masters and Para climbers, giving all women an opportunity to take part and compete together. Many of the female podiums are dominated by young climbers and it’s beyond exciting to see this sport progress and imagine how this will translate into future World Champions and Olympic athletes.
Climbing gyms hold pub quiz nights, show films, throw parties, serve craft beer, offer yoga and strength training classes, which reflects the whole community they serve. Climbing gyms are one of the most inclusive spaces you’ll find in sport and are leading the way as one of the most accessible places to come into the sport, regardless of age, ability, or gender.
Last year, I began coaching at The Font in London. I’m still improving and finding ways to excel and share my passion. Climbing, like many sports, it’s a testament to the fact that technique and experience can triumph over sheer strength. Climbing demands full focus yet lets you lose yourself in the movement. Climbers regularly push past barriers to experience progress which is fulfilling both mentally and physically and has been likened to yoga in its meditative capacity and mental health benefit.
As a coach, I am able to help others push through their boundaries, conquer routes, overcome fears, and get to witness their growth, which is hugely rewarding. Coaching is a way for me to give back and continue to find joy in the success of others. Being in the moment, improving technique, getting stronger, trusting yourself, regulating your emotions, adapting to what is presented and finding your own way, are foundational learnings in climbing and transferable to many aspects of work and life.
Ladies, what are you waiting for? Find your local gym, grab a friend, and get climbing.
Eileen Kiernan, Climber and Coach
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